If you have found this page by searching for razor restoration services – YES, you found someone that does it. However – I am currently swamped with work and only accepting honing.
I have decided to stop taking on large projects for the time being while I work through my backlog. While this understandably frustrating for everyone involved, when I look at the shelves of work waiting for my attention, I feel like it is the right thing to do.
Demand for Restoration Services has outpaced the work I have been able to perform. We appreciate the support and are sorry that we are unable to accept new work at this time. —– BRAD MAGGARD
If you are interested in my restoration services, please fill out the quote form below. You can also contact me directly by e-mail at: firstname.lastname@example.org.
Pinning: I use a few types of metals for pinning – Brass, Nickel-Silver, and Stainless Steel. I use 1/16″ Brass or Nickel Silver Rod for the pins, and #0 Brass or Stainless Steel washers. I peen all of my razors with a 4oz or 8oz ballpeen hammer. These materials do not rust, therefore they are perfect for this application. I put a set of thin brass pivot washers between the tang and scales as well.
Scales: When possible, I always try to preserve the original scales — even if there are a few cosmetic issues with them. If they keep the blade safe, they are doing their job, so, why replace them? That said –unfortunately not every 100+ year old razor comes in working condition, so, why not make some nice pretty new scales 😉
As time goes on, I have decided to stop making wood scales. I don’t think its a very good material for scales — it can crack easily and may rot/warp over time. I prefer using synthetics such as G-10, Micarta, and Carbon Fiber, but, where I really shine is when I get my hands on some beautiful buffalo horn blanks. I have made enough horn blanks to know the ideal process for creating mirror-buffed, perfectly shaped buffalo horn scales.
Sanding: I use a variety of methods to sand pitting out of razors. I typically use 3M Wet/Dry Sandpaper — the dark grey colored sandpaper that is waterproof and usable on metals. It works far superior to the brown/tan colored wood sandpaper. I sand at the following grits: 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 1500.
In addition, I use a bench top belt sander with belts ranging from 80 grit to 400 grit.. this cuts down on a little time…but honestly most of my jobs are finished off by hand, because of the control that hand sanding provides me.
Polishing Compunds: I use greaseless compounds in various grits (80, 120, 180, 240, 320, 400, 600), and emery compounds. I use these with 4″, 6″, and 8″ buffing wheels on a buffing machines ranging from 1100rpm to 1750rpm. I also use Emery compound, White rouge, Green compound, MAAS and Mothers metal polishes for the final steps.
Tools: I use a small number of tools for my work. these include a Delta 1700/3400 Variable speed bench grinder/buffer, variable speed dremel, Jet 14″ bandsaw, 4″x36″ Belt sander, 6″ disc sander, 2×72″ belt sander, Drill press, Ball Peen Hammer, Coping Saw, Wire cutters, a respirator, and a bench vice. The most important tool, is a good eye.
My Goal: My main goal is removing active rust on blades. Many times, I will leave considerable pitting on blades, because it just doesn’t hinder a razors performance. I like a little bit of pitting on a 100…150…200 year old blade even if just to remind me of its age.
Honing: I use a series of hones to sharpen razors. I typically use a Chosera 1000 stone for setting bevels, followed by Naniwa 3000, 8000, and Thuringian Finishers.